I thought I could make a small HOW-TO on changing the turbo on the KAD32. I used to own a Bavaria32Sport whicj lacked a bit of performance.
This engine is reasonably similar to the AQAD30 series as well as KAD42, KAD43, KAD44 and also the KAD300, so you can certainly use this as a guide.

DISCLAIMER:  I take no responsibility if you damage your own engine by following this guide. Good luck!



New turbo was purchased from Vallø motor, a local Volvo Penta store. Morten in the shop gave me good advice along the way, and also found all the copper washers and the correct gaskets.


You need a variety of tools.
I have a set as shown here (Biltema item number 10120)







I missed nothing except a wrench and a single umbraco key. You also need gasket sets from Volvo for the oil pipes, as well as the exhaust gasket. In addition, I personally change all copper discs.

Well, here goes.
New turbo was steel- no colours, I chose to paint my new one in Volvo green. Mask well, and pay particular attention to the oil flanges. Spray thoroughly in 2-3 layers. Then it turns green!


Remove the plastic cover



Drain the engine internal coolingsystem


Drain the engine of coolant. On the left side of the engine there are 2 hoses. We will loosen the one that is NOT marked with blue strips. Empty the contents into a jug. If it looks bad (not green and nice), then change the antifreeze. Drain as much as possible. The jug you see here is a 20 liter Biltema jug



Loosen the hose clamps that hold the pipe from the air filter/compressor. Loosen the umbra screw on the black hook. there are 2 pieces, one is a bit crooked at the back, but you will find it. Loosen the top screw on the hook, move away from the strut.


Remove the air filter, loosen 2 screws and remove the air filter box. Push an old t-shirt down the hole so that nothing falls down. Now remove the y-pipe that goes from the compressor/air filter to the turbo.



Loosen the clamps at the back of the turbo that hold the turbo together with the pipe that goes to the aftercooler. Remove the clip. Make sure that the orange seal is not lost.


Loosen the breather tube that is on top of the exhaust part of the turbo. The one where a hose leaves. The hose vents the turbo with coolant. As you can see, it goes to the thermostat housing and then to the expansion tank



Exhaust side. Loosen the clamp. This clamp is hard to pull apart, that's just the way it is. Just look forward to it going back on :-) We'll take this away to get to various screws.t11


Loosen the screw at the back of the turbo housing that secures the turbo at the rear.


Loosen both of the 2 bolts for the 2 oil pipes (oil supply and oil return). One is crooked, but with a 12mm spanner it goes 1/6 turn for each roof. You have to bend a hose a bit, but it works.



Remove the exhaust hook. Put an old t-shirt in the hole so nothing falls down here. If this happens, the boat must go ashore.




I didn't get a good picture of what is now going to be dismantled. If you follow the oil pipe that is at the top of the turbo down the block, you will come to a clip under the turbo. This should be loosened, not removed. Follow the pipe further down to about the middle of the block. Here it mentions a 19mm banjo bolt that must be removed so that the oil pipe on top of the turbo can be moved away when the turbo is to be removed. DO NOT bend the oilpipes.


Now loosen the 4 pcs 15mm nuts that hold the turbo in place. Carefully remove the turbo.
Be careful here. There will be some coolant in this, this must not end up in the exhaust manifold.



Wow, the turbo is loose and can be removed.



We need some parts from the old turbo to be transferred to the new one. Remove the Allen screw from the new turbo as shown in the picture. Loosen the bolt on the old turbo and transfer to the new one. This is the rear attachment to the turbo. Also move over the brass bolt from the old one to the new one (the bolt next to the wrench picture)).




Important!! Now it's a coffee break, preferably with a pickled waffle or baguette.



Then it's time to start fitting the new turbo (also called StressFan :-) Put the new turbo in place on the 4 bolts. Be sure to follow the installation manual (1 page) and place the gasket with the raised part towards the turbo. Do not tighten the screws, just pull it down.


Install the 2 new gaskets and fasten the 2 bolts. NB: one is longer than the other. The longest should be at the top and back of the 4. Be very careful and pull evenly. I pull on the 2 little by little, probably 3-4 times back and forth to achieve even pressure.
Repeat on the 2 below (very tight space)


 Fasten the 4 bolts that hold the turbo now. Pull evenly on each of the 4, a little on one, then the next and do it around a few times. Tighten with 35-40Nm.

Screw in the fastening bolt at the rear edge.



Attach the clamp after the turbo as shown in the picture.



So: now comes the tricky part. Fit the banjo screw for the oil pipe. Here, 2 new copper washers must be fitted, at the same time that you must attach the pipe. It took me almost 10 whole minutes before it finally sat as it should. I used a socket wrench that I filled with cardboard to get some pressure on the bolt. Works fine.

t26Fill some engine oil into the turbo to give it lubrication at first start.

Fit the exhaust elbow that you removed instead. The clamp on the brain is tight as hell, but it will eventually go away. attach all hose clamps to various hoses.


Attach the air pipe that is to be on top of the turbo.t28


Insert the air filter box first in place, then the Y pipe as shown. Tighten hose clamps


Check that the hose clamps are in place.


Finally, there is the black air bend, which is attached with the 2 Allen screws and the top brace.







Now it's just a matter of topping up with coolant again,


Wipe up any oil spills around where you have screwed on pipes that have to do with oil (the one on the side of the block and the 2 on the turbo). Wait a bit so the air has time to rise to the expansion tank (5 minutes??) and you can start up the engine. Let it run for a few minutes. Stop it again.

Check the engine for oil leaks and water leaks. Check especially the banjo bolt on the block on the left side and under the oil pipes to the turbo. 
Congratulations, you just changed a turbo and learned a bit about your machine :-)


Erik S-H

Let's work together